The battery light never came on. The real difference lies in the fact that I am supplying power a full 14 volts to everything from that terminal and my alt. If you chase the wiring on a stock 70s Chevy you'll find that it actually goes thru a fusible link to the battery connection on the solenoid. The two spade terminals are labled 1 and 2. All internally regulated systems come with the remote voltage sensing feature, but not all externally regulated systems do. The alternator will not charge until it get's that 12 volts from the exciter.
Also, does anyone know the typical current flowing through the rotor when the alternator is producing 10A and maximum current, say 80A. A final word of caution is to think twice and then think about it again before deviating from the way the factory did things if you want to customize your charging system. Took alternator to a rebuilder who said it was fine but was not getting exciter. In fact, that would be my next step if I got bad readings at the port. With the truck running, I am not getting an volts on the excited.
He covers everything: petronix, generators, alternators, cooling systems, relays, suspension, brakes, electrical components, trannys, carbs. This lack of moving parts makes the alternator not only very reliable - but also comparatively inexpensive to build and repair. To measure the voltage at the junction box you needed this extra wire. Will it run the battery down when it is not running? There are several regulators available. I'm going with the diode just to be safe.
As soon there is enough magnetic flux in the rotor, the rotor will take over and the voltage regulator adjusts the voltage to the correct level. I went ahead and jumpered it anyway and no charge. The internally regulated models are also very easy to service if something goes wrong - there is only one part to fail the alternator itself and replacing it is a simple 30 minute job. If you don't use a juncttion box you can just run a line from terminal one to the battery terminal and that'll be enough. The voltageregulator which controls alternator output contains circuitry that uses the residual magnetism in the alternators rotor fields to determine when to turn the alternator on and off, a standard Delco alternator would not do this without an ignition activation wire.
I have a biz trip that will keep me out from under the hood until Saturday. I'll see if I can get my hands on a right one for sure. This is usually based on a chevy alternator type and only requires a battery wire connected to the battery terminal. This should be run to keyed-on power. A fuseable link is desired. This should read around 13. Use caution if you decide to do custom wiring work with resistors as they can get hot and melt stuff.
It was also used in a lot of off-road equipment, so they're generally cheap and easy to find. It is a good idea to run a ground wire from the alt to the frame. When I originally wrote this webpage I was not aware of the remote voltage sensing feature and the possible issues with connecting the remote sensing wire directly to the alternator output, and now that I am, I believe I understand a few problems I was seeing in the operation of my 1973 Electra. Engine off the lamp is on. It only needed to be done when installing a new regulator or generator to the vehicle.
This line is the thicker of the two when looking at the 'da' plug that fits the two spade terminals. How come you haven't registered? You mount them to the engine, plug them in, and go. After the engine starts, I have to rev it up a bit to get the alternator to put out a charge. I verified the test light is working. So i guessed it goes up there someplace. Since this does not look to me to be factory, tracing this down will probably be a waste of time. However, it may be necessary to make revisions and Charlie's Repair reserves the right to make all such changes without notice, including prices, colors, materials, equipment and specifications as well as the addition of new models and the discontinuance of models shown on this web site.
If you have not yet received a password reset, please re-issue one here: This will send a password reset to your email address on file. This is because the voltage at the place this wire is connected to will be maintained at the proper level. I don't want to F anything up. I think somewhere between the disconnected alarm and the blue light is the problem but struggling to find. Well spotted That diagram came from some training handout, so many people must have viewed it. It is more complicated than a generator, but that added complexity brings a few very good features that you will most certainly want on your vehicle - mainly the fact that it will charge the battery at idle and can support the higher amperages needed to run all of the electrical equipment on a modern vehicle.
Alternators The more modern and more capable alternator is explained here. Check the manual that came with your alternator. Engine off the lamp is on. That is what Alan means by 'run on. Touched the tip to the prong inside the alternator that the wire connects to.